Viognier Reserve 2023

Although Viognier is grown in limited volume in several disparate viticultural regions of the world, the prototype of everyone’s expectations for the wine is set in and around Condrieu, in the northern Rhône Valley, where it is customarily fermented in oak barrels, passed through malolactic fermentation, and aged for 6 to 24 months in oak. A warm growing region emphasizes the fruit’s inherent melon-like, floral, and viscous qualities, which are naturally enriched further with these winemaking techniques. This is the style we, ourselves, adopted in our original vintages, and with success if resemblance to Condrieu is accepted as a guide. Indeed, the judges at the 1999 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition remarked privately to us, if our 1997 Cabernet Franc had not carried the day, the 1998 Viognier would have done.

But after our first three vintages, we suspected we could discover more in our fruit than these methods allowed – more nuances in the aromatics, more refreshment on the palate – and with our restrained approach, we discovered several unexpected facets of this grape. This meant a shift to stainless steel, for fermentation; an avoidance of malolactic fermentation; and vitally important, a cool, 9-12 month aging and stirring on the lees in stainless steel.

This approach affords a wine which is a more elegant, more diversified asset in the hands of any culinary enthusiast, than has traditionally been expected of Viognier, and 10 years of vitality in finer vintages. Now our Viognier is listed in fine restaurants from Copenhagen and London to Miami and Chicago, as sommeliers appreciate its unmasked, natural complexity. Its food-partnering range is expanded, even as its own character is better articulated; and it is a leading exponent of the style of our house.